60 years: China-made fabrics break the bottleneck into the innovative fast lane

The fabric industry in China has undergone significant transformation since the early days of liberation, where blue, gray, and black dominated the scene. Over time, the industry evolved, giving rise to fabrics like cotton, wool, and silk. By the mid-1990s, industry leaders began to recognize the potential of fabric as a driving force for elevating the sector's status. This shift marked the beginning of a new era for China’s textile industry. The China International Fabrics Expo and China’s popular fabric engineering have flourished, expanding the industry’s reach. Time and again, the industry has emphasized the importance of fabric aligning with clothing trends, breaking through bottlenecks, and encouraging domestic fabric quality to improve. China’s fabric industry is gaining increasing attention and is expected to pioneer innovative paths. Over the decades since the founding of New China, blue, gray, and black cotton garments were the primary choices for attire. In the 1970s, the presence of textiles became more noticeable. With the advent of reform and opening-up, street fashion began to flourish. Today, when people select clothing, they consider not just style and color but also the fabric, technology, and fashion sense. Innovation is the sole path forward for the industry, and it is also the clearest indication of its progress. While the early years of liberation were characterized by rudimentary material demands, fabric innovation has largely emerged over the past decade, achieving significant breakthroughs. In 1993, for the first time, a seminar on the integration of apparel fabric information release and development was held, involving apparel enterprises, fabric development experts, and businesspeople. For the first time in China, the idea of synchronizing fashion trends between apparel and fabrics was introduced, along with establishing a new fabric sample market. A design-production-distribution-consumption cycle was formed, supported by the leadership of relevant associations. At the "China Spring/Summer 1997 Fashion Conference" held at the end of 1996, over 20 well-known brands and powerful enterprises such as Hangzhou Kaidi Silk Co., Ltd., Jinan Heads Knitting Co., Ltd., Erdos Group, and Jiangsu Sunshine Group joined in researching, releasing, and showcasing physical samples for the spring and summer 1997 fashion trends. This indicated that studying the logistics structure, speed, price changes, and development trends in the clothing market had become a priority for entrepreneurs eager to escape the planned economy system. In October 1998, the "Well Bamboo" brand and ramie culture seminar organized by the Jiangxi Ramie Textile Group and China Textile Newspaper highlighted the importance of coordinating clothing and fabrics with variety development. In early 1999, fabrics again became the focus of the textile industry. At the "China International Textile & Apparel Fair 1999," the State Textile Industry Bureau proposed using fabric as a breakthrough point, aiming to increase the self-sufficiency rate of exported apparel fabrics from around 40% to over 65% within three years, replacing imported fabrics worth 3 billion yuan. As part of the expo activities, the "Xiantao Cup" fabric design and brand seminar was held, with Director Du Chau of the State Bureau of Textile Industry emphasizing the need for innovation in fabric products. Taking fabric as a breakthrough point requires domestic fabrics to innovate rather than remain in the imitation phase of reaching international standards. Fabric innovation relies not only on technology but also on cultural elements, integrating ethnic characteristics with modern designs. During the expo, the "Spring and Summer 2012 China Textile Fabrics and Color Trends Release" opened the curtain on the new era of China’s textile industry product development. From the ground to towering trees in fabric became a breakthrough for industrial upgrading, with the entire textile industry focusing on the fabric industry. The practicality, fashion, and originality of fabric products have become the goals of the entire industry. From November 30 to December 3, 1999, the National Textile Product Development Conference was held in Shanghai Mart, coinciding with the popular Chinese fabrics display/order. This event included products from finalists in China’s popular fabrics, textile areas in Taiwan, Shaoxing Textile City, China Textile City boutique area, and the textile products exhibition area in Xiqiao, Guangdong Province. It also featured the autumn/winter 2000/2001 China textile fabrics trends for five regions, with a focus on popularity and practicality. In 2000, the first China Textile Fabric Design Competition and the spring/summer 2001 China’s popular fabric finalists' corporate product review results were announced. Experts noted that China’s wool textile fabric design and production levels were significantly higher than those in other industries, while wool, linen, and silk industries shared some success. However, there was a need for improvement in the design of large quantities of cotton, printed, and knitted fabrics. When the autumn/winter 2001/2002 fashion products arrived, domestic textile enterprises enthusiastically participated in the evaluation, enhancing their product development awareness. Many companies focused on innovation and avoiding imitation, reaping promising economic benefits. To guide domestic textile enterprises in product development, the China Textile Information Center organized color and fabric experts from its Trend Proposal Team in May 2000. They analyzed and forecasted the next year's textile popular trends based on domestic and international market reports, international colors, and fiber institutions, providing recommendations to domestic textile enterprises and export-oriented businesses. In the rapid development of the industry, domestic fabric companies are experiencing a rapidly changing environment. Relying on the China Popular Fabrics project, many domestic enterprises have found their path to independent innovation and development. Companies like Quanzhou Haitian Textile Co., Ltd., Fuqing Hongliang Dyeing Co., Ltd., Xing Group Co., Ltd., Handan Bot Textile Co., Ltd., Shandong Hailong Co., Ltd., Fulida Group Holdings Ltd., Quanzhou BOND Fancy Yarn Technology Limited Company, Ningbo Hyde Knitting and Dyeing Co., Ltd., Wenxing Group, Shanxi Oasis Textile Co., Ltd., Foshan Nanfang Printing and Dyeing Co., Ltd., Huafang Co., Ltd., Dali Silk (Zhejiang) Co., Ltd., Shandong Jining Wishful Wool Textile Co., Ltd., and Shanghai Zhongda Technology Development Co., Ltd. have thrived on this platform. From followers to leaders, from 1995 to now, the China International Textile and Accessories Expo (Intertextile Fabric Show) has spanned 15 years. Over these 15 years, the expo has witnessed the rapid development of China’s textile industry, shifting focus from production costs to product development, evolving from simple followers to field leaders. Since 1999, the promotion of Chinese popular fabrics has also been ongoing for 10 years. Each quarterly trend covers both color and fabric, reflecting humanization and changing annually with the improvement of modern life. Every word directly addresses the forefront of trends, truly reflecting consumer psychological needs. The development of the fabric industry is closely tied to the social environment. The financial crisis of 2008 led to fabric products showing more economic and practical features. Looking at this year's latest product introductions, the enthusiasm of fabric enterprises has been reignited, with fabrics reflecting clearer trends. With the global market, domestic fabric enterprises are paying more attention to product adaptability to the environment, encouraging increased fashion and originality efforts. Domestic fabrics have experienced rapid development, akin to seedlings growing into towering trees. In the future, providing more space for the growth of this giant tree will require the industry to maintain sufficient enthusiasm and innovation, propelling domestic fabrics to the forefront of international fashion. (By Zhang Zhenxiao)

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