Elisabeth is with us today from the Advisors Circle. She popped in recently to showcase her versatile Gelato Dress styled in three distinct ways. Make sure to check out her detailed tutorials: the Recital Shirt with Ruffles, the Sleeve Flounce, and the Henley T-shirt. Now, she’s back with her latest creation, and she's ready to share all the juicy details.
Name: Elisabeth Larsen
Where can we find you online? Instagram, Flickr
Project Details
Pattern used: Liesl + Co. Rush Hour Dress
Fabric used: Solid stretch twill for the bodice, floral stretch twill for the skirt, and rayon bemberg taffeta for the lining.
Did the fabric work well?
When Liesl shared her introductory post for this pattern, she included an inspiration picture showing a dress with a printed bodice and a solid skirt. I was immediately drawn to that idea and decided to use it as a guide for my own dress. I scoured through various suitings, but ultimately settled on twill because of the beautiful floral stretch twill I found for the skirt. It was a match made in heaven!
The dress turned out beautifully in twill. My fabrics are a bit on the lighter side, with about 10% stretch each, which provided the perfect balance of structure and flexibility. They were incredibly easy to work with, too! The Lining Fabric is super light, adding no extra bulk and feeling incredibly comfortable against the skin. Initially, I worried about how these choices might affect the fit, but after completing the dress, I realized you could probably use a slightly lighter fabric for the bodice without compromising the overall design.
How did the sewing go?
This project took some time due to the extensive fitting process, but every step was absolutely worth it. This level of fit is something I’ve never achieved before! While I skipped the muslin stage, I did baste-fit all sections of the dress. The construction of this dress made it simple to do so—its multiple panels on both the bodice and skirt allowed for easy adjustments. I began by tweaking the waist seams, and if further changes were needed, I moved on to the hips. One key tip I’d offer is recognizing that you might need to fit the outer layers and the lining separately. For instance, stretch twill and bemberg behave quite differently, and I’m glad I basted the skirt fit early on. Had I applied the same adjustments to the lining as I did to the skirt, the lining would have ended up far too snug.
I aimed for a spring/summer dress, but I don’t feel comfortable wearing sleeveless styles. The short-sleeve option mentioned in the pattern description was exactly what I went with for this version.
Liesl’s instructions for the more intricate aspects of the dress were spot-on. The invisible zipper went in flawlessly on the first attempt—a thrilling moment for any seamstress! The mitered hem was surprisingly straightforward, and I’d highly recommend referring to the blog post on how to catchstitch for a seamless finish. I adore the invisible hem, especially since my printed skirt would have been impossible to match with a single solid color. I’ve struggled with blind hems in the past, so I put on a movie, grabbed my needle and thread, and caughtstitched the entire hem well before the credits rolled.
What was the best part?
I absolutely adore how this dress fits! I’m always drawn to similar styles in stores, but they rarely live up to expectations. With this dress, I was able to blend across three sizes, select my preferred cup size, and refine the fit further during the basting process. The final product is hands-down one of the best-fitting items I’ve ever worn. I also appreciate all the thoughtful and professional touches. The Dior darts were a new technique for me, but I love their appearance. The mitered hem and catchstitch give the skirt’s edge a polished look, and I particularly enjoy how the lining connects seamlessly to the dress, ensuring the inside is as elegant as the outside.
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