In the 1970s of the last century, urban residents lived a relatively austere life. Buying fabric required cloth coupons, and the average person could only afford two new outfits per year. The saying, "The new three years, the old three years, sewing and making do for three more," vividly captured how people dressed back then. Despite material scarcity, people never stopped chasing beauty. This led to the rise of Fei Bubu and false collars, which were dubbed the "invention of the impoverished era" or "collar savers." Essentially downsized versions of shirts, these false collars included a collar, front, back, buttons, buttonholes, and two tapes to hold them in place and prevent them from riding up. Made from leftover fabric scraps, they required no additional coupons and were identical to full-sized shirts. People would wear a false collar over their outerwear, such as sweaters or jackets, creating an illusion of authenticity while enhancing their appearance. By the late 1970s to early 1980s, false collars were all the rage. Whether in cities or rural areas, nearly everyone owned a few of these accessories.
In urban settings, classic men's attire often paired hand-knitted sweaters with false collars, while fashionable young women favored lace-trimmed versions crafted from small fabric pieces. False collars came in various colors and styles, including small square collars and larger ones. Rural areas, constrained by limited resources, typically opted for plain white false collars, with the exposed portion being white cloth and the back patched together using scraps of leftover fabric. Besides conserving fabric, false collars offered another advantage: they didn’t need washing with water or soap, protecting outerwear and sweaters from collar wear caused by skin contact.
Reportedly, the most sought-after false collars at the time were those purchased from Shanghai's Nanjing Road, known for their "Shanghai goods." These Shanghai-made collars were resin-based, maintaining a crisp structure. However, they had one notable drawback: when temperatures rose, removing outer layers left the sweater exposed, revealing the false collar underneath.
As living standards improved rapidly, this once-popular accessory faded into memory for older generations, becoming a nostalgic artifact for those in the '80s and '90s. Surprisingly, some garment factories still produce false collars today, catering to niche demand. An employee from a foreign trade company mentioned that during overseas trips, he'd carry around a dozen false collars. "They're lightweight and easy to pack, even if used just once. The cost is far lower than renting a shirt at a hotel."
Some factories are now designing new iterations of false collars, such as collar styles reminiscent of lotus leaves. As reported by the "China Quality News," this resurgence reflects both nostalgia and innovation in fashion.
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