Jia Linjie deepens the wool underwear fabric to achieve light and thin industrialization

Project Name: New Technology and Industrialization of Light and Thin Wool Knitted Underwear Fabrics

Completed by: Shanghai Jialinjie Textile Co., Ltd.

Completion personnel: Shan Miaomiao, Dong Wei, Ding Chen, Zhang Guoxing, Yan Feng, Qian Aijun, Ke Hua, Lin Lihu, Meng Danrui, Jin Wei

Face to face

Innovation is the eternal subject

Dialogue with Yang Qidong, Deputy General Manager of Jialinjie Textile Co., Ltd.

TAweekly: Jialin Jie new products, has a kind of innovative mechanisms behind?

Yang Qidong: The company's technical team is divided into two groups, one group mainly solves the problems encountered at the production site, and the other group is mainly at the forefront of the market. Innovation is the eternal theme of an enterprise. Without innovation, there is no enterprise development. Our innovation mechanism is to combine the needs of the market with the forecasts of the company. The company is located in Shanghai, and there is always a sense of crisis for development. The company's annual R&D investment is more than 4%. It fully supports the technological innovation from financial resources and material resources. As long as it is the R&D expenses, it will always be a green light. This ensures that the annual sales rate of new products reaches 60%.

TAweekly: How is the company doing differentiated development?

Yang Qidong: The products developed by Jialinjie are determined by the market. More precisely, it is determined by the customer base. The technical department transforms the product concept into a product. In the past, it was always a closed door to build a car. No matter how good the product is, the market does not accept it and has no value. In terms of technology development, it was previously based on products, and now we must consider the range of costs that customers can accept. Technology research and development should be carried out around the price that customers can accept.

TAweekly: What is the outlook for the wool underwear market?

Yang Qidong: Wool is widely used in underwear and sportswear in Europe and America. H&M, ZARA, Uniqlo, Nike and Adidas are promoting wool products. Italy, the United Kingdom, and Australia are making wool products, but because there is no dyeing and finishing plant, the industrial chain is incomplete, so the use of wool in China is increasing, but the terminal products are sold in Europe and America. Wool is a high-grade raw material. In Australia, young people are no longer engaged in the business of shearing wool. The average age of shearers is 61 years old, so the production of wool is decreasing, and it is becoming a luxury raw material, and the price is increasing every year. But the feel of the wool and the comfort of the skin are the best of all textile materials. Wool weft fabric Jialin Jie is one of the main products, all products exported to Europe. I got a message from the exhibition. I heard that Japan's MUJI also wants to make wool products, which shows that the market space is still very large.

Recently, when the reporter was interviewed by Shanghai Jialinjie Textile Co., Ltd., the company's deputy general manager Yang Qidong told reporters about this: A few years ago, the sports brand Adidas once looked for a moisture wicking function in the market. polyester wool blend fabric sports, Jialin Jie quoted a price. Adidas has been visiting the markets of Vietnam, South Korea, Japan, and Taiwan for a high price. The visits in half a year have had no results. Everyone has heard that it is impossible to develop wool fabrics that absorb moisture and perspiration. In desperation, Adidas had to return to find Jia Linjie and accepted the company's offer. Jia Linjie immediately invested millions of dollars in product development, and finally successfully developed fabrics that meet Adidas. “The development of this fabric has been very successful and has maintained a 40% growth in the market for four consecutive years.” Yang Qidong was still very excited when he mentioned this example.

In the product line of Shanghai Jialinjie Textile Co., Ltd., wool sports fabric is the company's fist product. From the company's customer procurement situation, we know how strong Jialinjie is in this field: Nike's highest-end wool sports fabric is supplied by Jialinjie; the first Icebreaker launched pure wool outdoor sports brand has Jialinjie as the only batch supply in the world. The wool flame retardant underwear developed by Jialinjie is also favored by the Australian Ministry of Defence, with an annual purchase amount of US$2 million.

Generally speaking, in people's impression, the advantage of wool is more of its warmth. In fact, wool can have moisture wicking properties, especially for underwear and sportswear. However, if the wool is applied to underwear and sportswear, the fabric is required to be light and thin. The lightness of the fabric seems simple, but it needs to overcome a series of production technical problems. From January 2012 to December 2013, after two years of research, Jia Linjie successfully developed a new technology for the production of lightweight wool knitted underwear fabrics and achieved industrialization. The results obtained in "Textile Light" 2015 Annual China Textile Industry Association knitted underwear Innovation Award.

Conquering the four major problems of wool fabric thinning

According to the introduction of Ding Chen, the main completion of the project, wool fabrics will encounter many problems in the production of underwear fabrics. First, the wool itself is yellow. It is difficult to obtain bright colors. The current technology for obtaining bright colors is mainly to bleach and dye the wool. However, once the bleaching is uneven, subsequent dyeing is easy to cause problems such as color flowering, and the traditional process has great damage to the wool; secondly, the existing wool bleaching process has great damage to the wool, and finally the white light and thin fabric is difficult to meet the strong requirements of the customer; Third, underwear fabrics mostly contain spandex . Lightweight and spandex-containing fabrics are easy to curl, which brings great problems to subsequent garment sewing. Fourth, the itching of wool itself has always been a major obstacle to the application of wool in underwear fabrics. .

The company's technical staff has not been intimidated by the difficulties. Through years of technical accumulation, they have launched an impact on one problem. By studying the high-knit yarn process parameters and low-tension weaving technology, the problems of easy yarn breakage and fluffing of woven lightweight fabrics are solved.

Add new sources of profit

The goal of low energy consumption and low damage in lightweight wool knitted underwear fabrics has been achieved. Compared with the performance of the wool fabric produced by the domestic conventional production technology, the wool fabric produced by the result is light and thin, and can be accepted by most customers; the color chromatogram is complete, and the color can be produced; the fabric feels good and the itching is weak. . After the results were applied in batch production, the company received new orders for wool and thin fabrics. In 2014, the company added a profit of 1.69 million yuan and added a profit of 2.11 million yuan in 2015.

According to industry experts evaluate the results of the promotion of China's wool knitted fabrics, especially the development of lightweight knitted wool underwear fabric, thin woolen knitwear enhance the quality and grade of our country, to promote fiber, textiles, dyeing and garment industry and related industries Scientific and technological progress has a positive role to play,

The pace of product development of Jialinjie will not stop. For the future development of product development, Yang Qidong said: "The function of moisture absorption and wicking of fabrics has been solved, and functions such as moisture absorption and quick drying should be achieved in the future. For this reason, there are already 8 research projects this year. start up."

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